Friday, November 13, 2009

Rectangular Watch Proportions

I like vintage rectangular watches, popularized by Cartier in the form of their famous "tank" watch. Have you ever wondered how watch designers come up with the proportions, e.g. dial width x height, used in that kind of watch? After all, a rectangle can be virtually a square or, at the other extreme, almost a line! Surely their bosses didn't just say "draw me a dial for our latest answer to le tanque"?

The literature of Art and Architecture makes much of the importance of correct proportions. It turns out that the most referred-to proportions have been popular since the time of the ancient Greeks. The Greek philosophers, in particular Pythagorus, spent a lot of effort on the subject of geometry. They arrived at a set of pleasing proportions that can be created using simple geometric figures and therefore by ordinary drawing instruments.

Could a geometric method have been used by a latter-day draftsman to construct his dial drawing ready for use by the screen-printing department?

Pythagorus came up with three kinds of proportions: Arithmetic, Geometric and Harmonic. You can read more about those here. These proportions or "means" can be calculated but, more importantly, they can be drawn using simple drawing instruments such as rulers or compasses. If we were to consider the numbers 1 and 2 and find out what the three possible means are, that would give us three easily-drawn ratios. They work out as follows:

3 by 2The arithmetic mean of 1 and 2 is 1.5, a proportion of 2:3. Easy enough to draw: Make a square and divide it into quarters. Draw a line through the diagonal of one of the quarters and continue until it meets the extension of one side of the square (see construction at right).

1 by root2The geometric mean of 1 and 2 is 1.414: Draw a square with a side equal to the required width. Then use dividers to measure the diagonal and use them to mark the required height.

4 by 3The harmonic mean of 1 and 2 is 1.333. To be exact, it's 1-1/3 and can also be represented by the proportion 3:4: Split a square in two and then split one of the resulting rectangles in two along it's length and "remove" the outer part.



Be that as it may, I then measured the aspect ratios of the outside edges of the watch dial minutes chapters for which I have pictures. I measured the chapters because these are probably both the starting point and the main feature of any dial design. I leveled them up in PhotoShop and then measured the minutes chapters width and height in pixels. Dividing the height by the width gave me an aspect ratio, i.e. the proportional mean. Whilst bearing in mind experimental errors with this method, here are the results:


These two have the arithmetic proportions; the Jurgensen measured at exactly 2:3
jurgensengilman

This one was close-ish to geometric at 1.39:
bulova

This one was exactly harmonic:
bulova

These non-pythagoreans came in at an easily drawn 1.25 which, by the way, is a popular aspect ratio for photographic printing, e.g 8 by 10:

5 by 4curvex deco

The one below, at 1.7, looks skinny and appears not to fit any known arty-crafty criterion, not even the oft-quoted golden ratio. However, 1.7 is extremely close to 1.666, i.e. a proportion of 3:5 which can be drawn similarly to the previous method:

5 by 3gruen

Note also that the numbers 3,5 are sequential members of the Fibonacci series which, at it's limit, does indeed equal the Golden Ratio.

I conclude that many designers used easily-drawn geometric proportions for dial art-work but did not necessarily adhere to just the three classic Pythagorean means. In Japanese architecture, rooms were often sized by the fit of standard tatami mats which themselves were 3ft by 6ft i.e. 1:2. Different arrangements and numbers of mats used resulted in various proportions, including our 2:3, 3:4 and 4:5 but apparently not 3:5. However, the Italian architect Andrea Palladio (1508-1580) did include the proportion 3:5 in his "The Four Books on Architecture" as one of the seven "most beautiful and proportionable manners of rooms". Not to be outdone, the 20th century French architect Le Corbusier came up with a "Modulor" tool that allowed the drafting of dimensions that were all proportioned according to the Golden Ratio.

Best regards,
xpatUSA

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Re-painting bezel markers and watch hands

It's not too hard (assuming that the bezel marks are engraved). Use Tesors modeling enamel and some really good quality fine artist's brushes. Here's my Longines Weems bezel, before and after.

before
after

Paint the marks and numbers, doesn't matter if you go over the edge of the engraving. Wait until the paint gets tacky. Wet, but do not soak, a cloth in thinners or acetone. A nap-free cloth is best, e.g. an old cotton shirt. Wipe the bezel quickly one time in a circular motion around it (to cross the markers, not run along them). Don't press too hard i.e. you must let the solvent remove the excess enamel rather than scraping it off with the cloth. Don't go back and try to remove the inevitable smear or two. Wait for the paint to dry pref overnight. Then remove the smears, again with a one-shot quick motion. If you have go over a smear again, wait for for the solvent/enamel to dry completely before wiping again.

Hands are best removed, wiped with solvent and then mounted on cocktail sticks pushed into a lump of Rodico. You have to work fast, not allowing the enamel to dry. You might want to thin it just a little. The enamel must flow from the brush onto the hand. Put some enamel in a cap. Don your jeweler's loupe, pick the finest brush you've got and load it with enamel. From the base of the hand outward, run the brush along in ONE stroke. Do NOT go back and re-touch it. If it doesn't look right, remove the paint immediately and do it again.

A little practice before helps a lot!

Best regards,

xpatUSA

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

From the Bench: this week . . .

. . . was like the Curate's Egg!
I had to send out the Elgin 7-jewel from my collection. It would run dial up, but not dial down. The watchmaker fixed it - a center wheel problem. The center wheel is driven by the mainspring barrel gear. The pinion on that model of Elgin is actually screwed onto the center wheel shaft and was loose. Apparently there's also a rivet which was worn so he changed out the whole center wheel.
A Seiko 6119 arrived, purchased as "runs then stops". It had a broken balance and presumably ran in the Seller's mind until he stopped thinking about it :-( Fortunately, I was able to locate another movement for 15 bucks.
This $40 Doxa made it all the way from Haifa, Israel (you know who you are) with the jitteriest indirect seconds hand I've ever seen - and a dialside cap jewel and holder was completely missing from the escape wheel. Fortunately, I found one to fit amazingly well from a dead Gruen 510R. It should clean up and run well.
doxa movt
(The guy's fingers tell a bit of a story - it must 'ave come orf of the movement, guv)
A Seiko 6119 arrived, purchased as "runs then stops". It had a broken balance and presumably ran in the Seller's mind until he stopped thinking about it :-( Fortunately, I was able to locate another movement for 15 bucks.
This nice Elgin Lady's watch is beginning to piss me off - after the third try, it's still running superfast with incredibly low amplitude.
Elgin ladies front
Elgin ladies movt
The only real success this week is a Elgin 23-jewel Cal. 718 fitted to a Lord Elgin dial. After tweaking the hairspring and servicing, it runs very well.
Lord Elgin 718 movt
"6 ADJ" is pretty cool. Usually, this means that the factory set up this movement to keep best time in the average of four positions (dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down for example) and of two temperatures - presumably to simulate off and on the wrist. Quite a lengthy, skilled process back then. Only after that would the watch be finally regulated with the lever thingy.

Best regards,
xpatUSA

Friday, August 14, 2009

Removing/Replacing a Gallet snap-back

These military backs are really hard to remove. If you do manage to struggle one off, putting it back on ain't that easy, either. I'm sure that there are proper tools out there that will do the job perfectly but, if you're brave, here's how I do it.

lube
First, using a small screwdriver or a plastic cocktail stick, put a few drops of your favorite penetrating oil around the join and leave it for a few hours.

chisel
This is the business end of my Dad's old mortising chisel. The blade section is about 7/16" square and the tool is about 18" long. The end will need a quite shallow bevel, less than that of a properly sharpened chisel.

mounted in vise
Place the watch in a vise, which must have soft alloy protectors on the jaws or, better yet, medium hard plastic ones. Tighten the vise just enough to prevent the lugs opposite the chisel from riding up the jaw under pressure.

mounted in vise
In this view you can see that the back does have a slight chamfer that the chisel blade can contact. Sometimes, the gasket is not fully compressed and there's a small gap to allow the blade to insert itself further.

chisel in operating position
I place the back of the chisel directly on the fat lug (nearest the crown) but it's probably better to use a wider chisel across both lugs with some thin protective material between the lugs and the back of the chisel. (Don't be tempted to use a screwdriver - the round shank will slip and mark something for sure). Push the chisel firmly but not excessively forward into the chamfer on the underside of the snap-back and lever the chisel handle downward. The back will probably fly off with a loud ping, so arrange that it can not land good side down (like toast) on your hard uneven concrete floor.

crown stem detent
If you need to remove the movement, push the little button while pulling on the crown

clamp
A woodworker's clamp can be used to refit the back to the watch.

press setup
Put a very thin coating of grease around the spigot on the body where the back fits. The PVC pipe connector fits over the bezel but does not press on the crystal. The scrap plastic plug presses on the inner part of the back - the theory being that the back might flex enough to open out it's edges a little.

press setup detail
Tighten the clamp slowly, all the while making sure that parts stay as parallel as possible. I find that pressure builds up and up - and then the back just slips on. Make sure it is even all the way around. Move the plug over and re-clamp if one side of the back is not all the way on.

Y'all be careful now and don't force anything!

Best regards,
xpatUSA

Sunday, July 5, 2009

A not so nice Elgin 7-jewel movement

This movement is one of 16,000 caliber 430 movements made in 1927. While American movements of the era were often beautifully made, this 7-jewel product is a little less than perfect! All the more surprising considering that it came inside a nice 14K solid gold tonneau-style case.

dial side

This image was Photoshopped to bring out the machining marks. The body seems to have been cut too thin. As a result, the arc-shaped marks near the center were not removed by the tool that cut the circumferential decoration lines seen clearly at right. Whoever stamped the serial number must have been to Hollywood and liked it.


top side

In this topside view, we see some really rough machining in the train wheel area and the barrel recess is not so pretty either. I'm willing to bet that the scratch in the barrel area came with the watch! At top right, the hole chamfers are uneven and obviously done by hand with, presumably, a drill bit. The "decoration" around the edge does nothing for me. Pearlage it ain't.


power bridge

Under the power bridge we find more poor machining and another Hollywood-style serial number. Observe the de-burring which exhibits that classic waviness resulting from the hurried application of a sharp blade of some sort.


milling mess

Here, a cutter has skipped it's way around the edge of the power bridge and even the chamfer is somewhat uneven. Too much pressure on the tool? Too low a speed causing vibration?


stem holeblued screw

At top left, there is a blued set lever screw looking very out of place. Blued screws are usually found on high-quality movements and then, normally, all of them are blued. Makes ya wonder. At right, more amateurish de-burring can be seen.

My guess is that, for a run of 16,000 cal.430 movements alone, the factory was hard-pressed to keep up production. Or maybe it was a new hire.

Best regards,
xpatUSA

Sunday, June 28, 2009

temporary test II

This post has auto line feeds turned on.
it should add one br for one return

and two br's for two

The preview's selection source shows br's added correctly w/no extras

The post's selection source shows the same. Therefore, with auto line
feeding turned off, WYS is not WYG !!

temporary test

This post has auto line breaks turned off
therefore, there should be no br's in this post

UNFORTUNATELY, THE PREVIEW FUNCTION PUTS THEM IN

EVEN THOUGH THEY DO NOT APPEAR IN THE ACTUAL POST